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<v Speaker 1>It's a crisp, clear, early autumn night, and I'm with

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<v Speaker 1>a group of friends at City Field in Queens, New York.

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<v Speaker 1>We're watching the Mets play the San Diego Padres. I'm

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<v Speaker 1>not that into baseball, but it's a playoff game, so

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<v Speaker 1>I know it's a pretty big deal. The stadium lights

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<v Speaker 1>are all on, illuminating the bright green field. The crowd

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<v Speaker 1>is loud and fired up. There's a light breeze. My

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<v Speaker 1>friends and I chat between innings, sipping on giant plastic

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<v Speaker 1>cups of beer and eating overpriced concessions.

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<v Speaker 2>How many nachos with beef bass?

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<v Speaker 1>That's okay? All over City Field you can easily buy nachos,

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<v Speaker 1>you know, the round do chips that come with a

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<v Speaker 1>little tub of cheese sauce in a cardboard box that

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<v Speaker 1>opens up into a tray on your lap, and find

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<v Speaker 1>vegan nachos at a vegan food stand tucked away in

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<v Speaker 1>a lone little corner of the stadium, all the way

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<v Speaker 1>in the back. City Field is also equipped with these

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<v Speaker 1>big nachos only concession stands. There's eight of them. The

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<v Speaker 1>smell of warm cheese surrounding them is like a siren call.

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<v Speaker 1>And that's where my friends and I went where we

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<v Speaker 1>could get all the toppings we'd ever.

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<v Speaker 2>Want, sour cream, blacamole, beans, cheese on Jolopeno's, and a

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<v Speaker 2>little pigoda gayo.

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<v Speaker 3>That's all.

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<v Speaker 1>Now, nachos are a big business. Waiting in line, I

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<v Speaker 1>spoke to some of the workers manning one of these

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<v Speaker 1>tricked out nacho stands. They sell two options. The difference

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<v Speaker 1>is the kind of plate you can get your nachos on.

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<v Speaker 1>Out of curiosity, how many of these do you sell?

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<v Speaker 4>Usually are a lot.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, we'll go through more than a hundred of these,

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<v Speaker 3>more than one hundred of the plates.

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<v Speaker 1>More than a hundred of them. Wow. And that's like

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<v Speaker 1>a busy right, like tonight. So well, that's like regular

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<v Speaker 1>as in maybe a regular season game that isn't sold out,

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<v Speaker 1>but on a busy night when City Field gets to capacity,

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<v Speaker 1>holding nearly forty two thousand people, maybe more than two

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<v Speaker 1>hundred of eight. On the field, the pros swinging bats

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<v Speaker 1>and stealing bases take center stage, but in the stands, well,

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<v Speaker 1>nachos to do a pretty good job of stealing the spotlight.

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<v Speaker 1>That wasn't always the case, though, the very first nachos

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<v Speaker 1>weren't served in a crowded stadium in New York City.

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<v Speaker 1>They were made in a mostly empty restaurant in Mexico

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<v Speaker 1>along the border, and they weren't designed to be a

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<v Speaker 1>big hit, But nachos would end up bigger than anyone

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<v Speaker 1>could have ever imagined.

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<v Speaker 5>From Futromedia and PRX, It's Latino Usa, I Maria nor

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<v Speaker 5>Rosa and who's in the movie food for some nachos.

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<v Speaker 5>Today we're serving up the history and the legacy of

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<v Speaker 5>this iconic snack food, nachos. You can already taste them,

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<v Speaker 5>hm hot melted cheese on fried corn, dortilla chips, or

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<v Speaker 5>as we call them in Spanish, to torpos. All of

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<v Speaker 5>that topped off with a familiar kick of prickly calapagno.

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<v Speaker 5>We often consider nacho's part of a family of classic

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<v Speaker 5>quote unquote American fast casual foods, but something that many

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<v Speaker 5>of these dishes have in common is their foreign roots, like,

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<v Speaker 5>for example, pizza, which was brought to the East Coast

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<v Speaker 5>by Italian immigrants, or hot dogs, which is basically a

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<v Speaker 5>riff on German frankfurters.

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<v Speaker 2>Nachos are no different.

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<v Speaker 5>The dish itself originated in Piedras Negras, a small town

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<v Speaker 5>in the Mexican state of Gualuila, right next to the

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<v Speaker 5>southern border of Texas.

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<v Speaker 4>Time for detour back down the Rio grand to Piros Negress,

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<v Speaker 4>Mexico to explain the exact moment in history.

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<v Speaker 2>But a nacho was created?

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<v Speaker 6>How and for who?

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<v Speaker 5>But even with some high profile figures like the late

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<v Speaker 5>Anthony Bourdain exploring the roots of nachos, the vast popularity

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<v Speaker 5>of the dish still overshadows its border town origins. People

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<v Speaker 5>tend to overlook that the classic natural flavor profile all

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<v Speaker 5>comes from Mexican food. Each time you bite into a

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<v Speaker 5>tortilla chip with that gouey cheese sauce, it's kind of

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<v Speaker 5>like gesso fundido, right, So you're actually eating an appropriation

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<v Speaker 5>of this cuisine, the result of someone else's pursuit of profit.

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<v Speaker 5>What's more, in our pursuit of a delicious snack, we

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<v Speaker 5>forget that someone had to actually create this dish. Nacho's

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<v Speaker 5>didn't just materialize one day at a concession stand, and

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<v Speaker 5>its birth is still largely unknown to the crowds of

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<v Speaker 5>people who fill their bellies and wallets thanks to natchos.

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<v Speaker 5>Today on Latino USA, we're bringing you a story that

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<v Speaker 5>we originally ran in twenty twenty three. It's all about

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<v Speaker 5>giving credit where credit is due, and I'm going to

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<v Speaker 5>give you just a hint. Nacho isn't just the name

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<v Speaker 5>of a popular snack. It was first the name of

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<v Speaker 5>a man, and his biggest impact isn't actually at the ballpark.

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<v Speaker 5>It's back home with the family he provided for. His

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<v Speaker 5>descendants are living in Texas preserving his legacy. Producer Alejandra

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<v Speaker 5>Salasad actually grew up with some of those family members,

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<v Speaker 5>so she's going to take this story from here.

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<v Speaker 1>It's summertime in San Antonio, Texas. The late July heat

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<v Speaker 1>floats off the asphalt in front of my parents suburban home.

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<v Speaker 3>Thanks to chat.

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<v Speaker 1>Oh, that is a dead cicada and with my mom,

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<v Speaker 1>her name is my Lina. We just stepped over a

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<v Speaker 1>shell of a cicada on our way to our car.

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<v Speaker 1>More cicadas hidden in the trees sing their dog day music,

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<v Speaker 1>breaking the sleepy afternoon silence. Hika, my microphone is on.

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<v Speaker 1>I think this is the first time my mom has

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<v Speaker 1>ever seen me at work in the field holding a

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<v Speaker 1>long shotgun mic with a tangle of wires and big

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<v Speaker 1>over ear HEADPHONESMI the mic has to be close to

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<v Speaker 1>your face to get audio. No, we're driving now, on

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<v Speaker 1>our way to my the e Cristina's house. The Cristina

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<v Speaker 1>is actually the reason I'm working on this story. Gristina

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<v Speaker 1>isn't technically a blood relative, but she and her entire

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<v Speaker 1>family might as well be. Gristina and my mother have

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<v Speaker 1>been best friends since they were young teenagers. They're both

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<v Speaker 1>from the same border town of Eagle Pass, Texas or

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<v Speaker 1>Igle Pass if you're a local. My mom and pretty

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<v Speaker 1>much all of her friends grew up with their lives

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<v Speaker 1>split across the Rio Grande. Mommy started going to school

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<v Speaker 1>in Eagle Pass when she was in the third grade,

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<v Speaker 1>but her family home was still on the Mexican side,

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<v Speaker 1>in a town called Pierre's Negras Squaw.

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<v Speaker 3>Cross the border every day to go to school every day,

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<v Speaker 3>twice coming from and then going back.

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<v Speaker 1>And then.

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<v Speaker 3>I mean, it was just it was no big deal crossing,

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<v Speaker 3>you know. It was just like I and annoyance Cariacolla Cali.

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<v Speaker 3>But other than that, it was like, eh, not, like

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<v Speaker 3>now that makes such a big deal that go, Oh

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<v Speaker 3>my god.

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<v Speaker 1>Christina and my mom met when they were in high

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<v Speaker 1>school and the friendship took off from there. Both women

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<v Speaker 1>grew up falling in and out of touch until they

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<v Speaker 1>both settled down and reconnected in San Antonio. They had

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<v Speaker 1>children who they treated as each other's family. Dia Cristina

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<v Speaker 1>is actually my youngest sibling's godmother. I remember visiting Dia

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<v Speaker 1>Cristina and Dio Felix's house when I was little, hanging

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<v Speaker 1>out with their kids. Our dads watched Spurs basketball games

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<v Speaker 1>and our moms shared cheesemath at the kitchen table. Their

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<v Speaker 1>bond turned out to be a lifelong one.

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<v Speaker 3>And never got tired of her, and she never got

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<v Speaker 3>tired of me. And she's pretty much the closest thing

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<v Speaker 3>I have to a sister.

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<v Speaker 1>I don't remember when my mom first told me about

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<v Speaker 1>Christina's paternal grandfather, Ignacio a Naya. He was more commonly

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<v Speaker 1>known as Natcho to his friends and family, Ignacio Nacho

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<v Speaker 1>a Naya, and his story has stuck in my head

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<v Speaker 1>ever since. How can you forget something like that? See,

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<v Speaker 1>Gristina's grandfather is Natcho be natural a culinary inventor behind

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<v Speaker 1>well nachos. Yeah, plot twist. It took me a second

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<v Speaker 1>to let it sink in too. To be totally clear,

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<v Speaker 1>the whole natural thing isn't central to Mythia's life. When

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<v Speaker 1>I asked her for her blessing to do a story

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<v Speaker 1>on it, well it didn't seem like that big of

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<v Speaker 1>a deal. Just another day at brunch, you know. After

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<v Speaker 1>a half hour drive through the San Antonio suburbs, Mammy

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<v Speaker 1>and I arrive at Christina's house greeted by a dog,

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<v Speaker 1>as usual, Pristina and her family have always been animal lovers.

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<v Speaker 2>Hello.

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<v Speaker 1>Hello, Christina is smiling. I haven't seen her in a

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<v Speaker 1>few months since her daughter's wedding last March, and she

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<v Speaker 1>gives me a big hug. She's wearing a casual navy

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<v Speaker 1>Maxi dress, her hair pinned back away from her face,

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<v Speaker 1>and half updo. She's always dressed nicely whenever I see her.

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<v Speaker 1>A couple of cats linger outside, and an older boxer,

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<v Speaker 1>Roxy is in the living room. A novela plays on

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<v Speaker 1>the TV fun fact. Mammy and Christina were born on

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<v Speaker 1>the same day, exactly one year apart. Both women are

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<v Speaker 1>in their mid fifties now, and their dynamic is the

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<v Speaker 1>result of decades of messing with each other. They both

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<v Speaker 1>talk very fast, and they're both very funny. They're always laughing. Eventually,

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<v Speaker 1>we sit down at Christina's dining table, squeaky clean and

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<v Speaker 1>wrapped in a plastic cover. I set up a little

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<v Speaker 1>mic stand for my idea. Could you just tell us

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<v Speaker 1>just to your name, your age, and originia right now.

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<v Speaker 7>My name is Christina Losantos and I live in San Antonio.

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<v Speaker 7>I am one of the granddaughters of the inventor of

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<v Speaker 7>the Nacho Signacio Naya, my grandfather, daughter of Ignacioonaya Junior.

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<v Speaker 1>Res My Rest in Peace de los Santos is Christina's

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<v Speaker 1>married name. Her maiden name is Anaya. I want my

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<v Speaker 1>thea to feel comfortable in front of the mic. She

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<v Speaker 1>hasn't been interviewed about her grandfather before, and definitely not

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<v Speaker 1>in English. She says, her dad did some interviews years ago,

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<v Speaker 1>but it's not like a lot of people come calling

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<v Speaker 1>to asktianayas about Nacho. In fact, Christina had to reach

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<v Speaker 1>out to some relatives to make sure she remembered the

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<v Speaker 1>entire story correctly. The first thing she mentions is not work.

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<v Speaker 1>By the time Christina was born, her grandfather already ran

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<v Speaker 1>his own restaurant, Natcho's Restaurant in Pierre's Negres. He'd opened

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<v Speaker 1>it after decades of working all jobs in the industry.

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<v Speaker 1>He liked cooking and always gravitated towards the kitchen. But

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<v Speaker 1>first and foremost, he was a businessman.

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<v Speaker 7>He passed away when I was like eighteen seven or eight,

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<v Speaker 7>and what I remember of him, it was just being

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<v Speaker 7>in business all the time. I remember getting to the

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<v Speaker 7>every day there to the restaurant.

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<v Speaker 1>He was always busy. Natural Naya was a serious looking man,

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<v Speaker 1>with a light gray mustache and thick dark hair that

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<v Speaker 1>he liked to brush back. Christina always remembers him wearing

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<v Speaker 1>a suit jacket with a button up shirt and a tie.

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<v Speaker 1>Rarely did he wear short sleeves or t shirts out

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<v Speaker 1>of the house.

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<v Speaker 7>My grandfather was a really elegant man. I'm going to

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<v Speaker 7>show you a picture.

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<v Speaker 1>In one picture, he said, bar of his own restaurant,

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<v Speaker 1>reclined on a stool, holding up a drink and a

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<v Speaker 1>toast with a group of other sharp dressed men, A

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<v Speaker 1>small smile lingers on the edge of his mouth. I

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<v Speaker 1>had never seen these photos of Natcho until Pustina shows

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<v Speaker 1>them to me at her dining table. Chances are that you,

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<v Speaker 1>dear listener, haven't either, because a lot of the photos

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<v Speaker 1>of Nacho that you can find online aren't of Natcho

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<v Speaker 1>at all. Thenia's joke about it, but still frustrating and

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<v Speaker 1>kind of sloppy, like the people who document and share

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<v Speaker 1>our history didn't really care about getting the details right.

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<v Speaker 1>A few years ago, Natcho was commemorated with a Google

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<v Speaker 1>doodle for his one hundred and twenty fourth birthday. For

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<v Speaker 1>a whole day, an animated drawing of a round faced

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<v Speaker 1>man assembling Nacho's popped up on the side's homepage. But

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<v Speaker 1>the image that came up when you looked up Ignacio Naye,

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<v Speaker 1>that wasn't him. Guisina was surprised that no one ever

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<v Speaker 1>reached out to the family to get a curate photos,

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<v Speaker 1>not Google, and not any of the websites hosting images

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<v Speaker 1>of Ignacio, And like, what the heck is this?

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<v Speaker 7>I asked my son to can you change the picture?

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<v Speaker 7>Can you tell them that this is not your great grandfather?

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<v Speaker 7>And he tried, he tried, He sent them to Google

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<v Speaker 7>and he got it to change the picture. I think

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<v Speaker 7>it lasts a lot, even like fifteen twenty minutes.

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<v Speaker 1>I put it back.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, I like that's a lot much.

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<v Speaker 7>Hya.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, Wikipedia at least has an accurate photo up as

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<v Speaker 1>of this taping, and it seems like the Internet generally

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<v Speaker 1>gets the broad strokes of Natural's story right. He was

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<v Speaker 1>born in eighteen ninety five in Mexico in a small

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<v Speaker 1>town named Manuel Benavides in the state of Chihuaua. It's

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<v Speaker 1>pretty close to the border on the west side of Texas,

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<v Speaker 1>about fifty miles from Big Bend National Park. After losing

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<v Speaker 1>his parents at a young age, Natcho decided to move

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<v Speaker 1>to the US when he was just a teenager, around

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<v Speaker 1>fourteen or fifteen years old. He hopped around small towns

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<v Speaker 1>in Texas working odd jobs landscaping, bussing, waitering, until he

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<v Speaker 1>settled on the border in Pierre's Negres, opposite the Rio

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<v Speaker 1>Grande from Eco Past Texas. And that's where he made

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<v Speaker 1>history based off of how your family has like preserved

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<v Speaker 1>the story and how you tell the story or remember

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<v Speaker 1>it now, because you kind of walk me through the

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<v Speaker 1>story of how the natchal was invented.

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<v Speaker 7>Whenever someone tells the story, they always changed something on

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<v Speaker 7>the story. That's what I've been noticing. Even they publish things,

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<v Speaker 7>and they always change something in the story, but what

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<v Speaker 7>I know it was that my grandfather was working at

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<v Speaker 7>Club Victoria.

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<v Speaker 1>Glue Victoria, that used to be a swanky restaurant right

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<v Speaker 1>near the river at the border on the Pierre's Negra side.

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<v Speaker 1>Natchal was a waiter there at the time. He also

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<v Speaker 1>used to work at a nearby spot called Blue Moderno,

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<v Speaker 1>and some write ups claim that it was that restaurant

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<v Speaker 1>where this all went down the Anayas though insist it

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<v Speaker 1>was Clue Victoria. The year is nineteen forty three.

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<v Speaker 7>The story was that he was working there and what

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<v Speaker 7>I knew that the restaurant was closing when the group

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<v Speaker 7>of ladies he was like around ten to twelve ladies

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<v Speaker 7>that were wives of military men and or generals at

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<v Speaker 7>the Air Force base over there in Ego Pass and

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<v Speaker 7>they went to visit to have dinner something in Pierrol Negas.

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<v Speaker 2>So they show up to.

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<v Speaker 7>The restaurant and my grandfather welcomed them in, but the

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<v Speaker 7>chef of the place at that time he was gone.

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<v Speaker 1>If that chef had still been in the kitchen, who

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<v Speaker 1>knows what would or would not have happened.

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<v Speaker 7>He was trying to, okay, what can I prefer since

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<v Speaker 7>the kitchen was close already. They just asked, no, just

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<v Speaker 7>not an appetizer.

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<v Speaker 1>That's it.

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<v Speaker 7>We don't need anything else.

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<v Speaker 1>Oh.

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<v Speaker 7>He went out and start cutting the tortillas, fry them,

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<v Speaker 7>and get the cheese.

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<v Speaker 1>The original Natural recipe has been lightly disputed over the years.

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<v Speaker 1>Some records say Natural used Colby Longhorn cheese to create

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<v Speaker 1>his bass. Christina, though swears it was shredded Wisconsin.

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<v Speaker 7>And he put them in the oven and bring them

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<v Speaker 7>to them and they loved it.

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<v Speaker 1>That almost feels like an understatement. Naturals were a hit.

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<v Speaker 1>The textures of the cheese and the jalapenos were just right,

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<v Speaker 1>with an added crunch in each bite. Each to topo

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<v Speaker 1>was compact, a self contained delivery system for flavor, and

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<v Speaker 1>it was so convenient to share in a group.

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<v Speaker 7>Mimi Finan, that's the lady that was with that group,

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<v Speaker 7>and I believe she used to live She was the

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<v Speaker 7>one that brought them over there, but I did she

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<v Speaker 7>used to live around in Piero Neros or Eagle Pass

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<v Speaker 7>or something. So she was the one that asked him,

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<v Speaker 7>what is the name of these dishes up? Since we

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<v Speaker 7>like it, he said, Ah, I don't know, I just

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<v Speaker 7>I just did it. Right now, and I just created

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<v Speaker 7>right now, and I don't have a name for it.

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<v Speaker 7>So she was like, well, so what's your name. He

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<v Speaker 7>was like, my name is Signacio Nacho, and she was

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<v Speaker 7>the one that say we're gonna call him Nacho specials.

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<v Speaker 1>Ignacio Naya remained in the restaurant business for the rest

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<v Speaker 1>of his life, and he kept making nachos Clue. Victoria

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<v Speaker 1>eventually added the dish to its menu, and in nineteen

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<v Speaker 1>sixty one, almost twenty years after creating his namesake platter,

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<v Speaker 1>Ignacio opened up his own restaurant. It was on Avenida Caranza,

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<v Speaker 1>the main street of Pierre Negres, just a couple of

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<v Speaker 1>miles from the Border bridge. The Anaya family home was

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<v Speaker 1>right next to the restaurant, connected by a door in

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<v Speaker 1>the kitchen. When she was a little kid, Christina would

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<v Speaker 1>go spend time at Nacho's restaurant after school. He used

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<v Speaker 1>to have a chef.

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<v Speaker 7>His name was Margharrito, Don Margharrito, and all my and

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<v Speaker 7>that he was like super nice, super sweet man.

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<v Speaker 1>Nacho had mentored Margharito since the latter was a kid.

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<v Speaker 1>After he found the boys selling knickknacks on the street

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<v Speaker 1>to make cash, Margharito became family NATO's right hand man.

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<v Speaker 1>Thanks to him, Christina made her own contribution to the

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<v Speaker 1>restaurant menu.

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<v Speaker 7>I didn't like cheese back then, so the nachos had

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<v Speaker 7>cheese in the round of kalapenno. And I will always

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<v Speaker 7>say no chice on the nachos and no jalapeno's now spicy.

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<v Speaker 7>Can you make me just the ta papos with beans?

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<v Speaker 7>And he was like, you are you always want to

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<v Speaker 7>change my recipes, but he will spoil me and make

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<v Speaker 7>me my bean nachos.

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<v Speaker 1>By the time Christina was experimenting in NATO's kitchen, Mexican

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<v Speaker 1>restaurants all across South Texas were already offering their own

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<v Speaker 1>takes on the dish, directly competing with her grandfather. His

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<v Speaker 1>restaurant proudly declared itself home of the Nachos Special, but

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<v Speaker 1>this had become bigger than that. Early on, Christina made

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<v Speaker 1>the decision to just roll with.

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<v Speaker 7>It, realize on that it became popular. He was, you know, yeah,

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<v Speaker 7>whenever started getting older, probably when I was in.

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<v Speaker 1>Middle school, high school.

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<v Speaker 7>But he never was like something like, oh my god,

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<v Speaker 7>this is my grandfather's invention. And I wasn't saying anything

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<v Speaker 7>because people will say, yeah right, you know, don't believe it,

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<v Speaker 7>so what for? So instead of telling everybody feeling like

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<v Speaker 7>oh yeah, yeah, yeah, no I was, I better don't

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<v Speaker 7>say anything, just enjoy it whatever.

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<v Speaker 1>Natcho was offered the chance to take Natcho's Special to

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<v Speaker 1>the big time by patenting the name or even starting

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<v Speaker 1>a chain of restaurants around it. Several sources, including the NIS,

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<v Speaker 1>corroborate that he had a small window to patent his

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<v Speaker 1>invention and potentially profit from it in the late nineteen

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<v Speaker 1>forties and fifties, but Nato opted not to go through

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<v Speaker 1>the trouble. In an interview with the San Antonio Express

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<v Speaker 1>News in nineteen sixty nine, when Nacho was already in

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<v Speaker 1>his seventies, he said that he had no idea just

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<v Speaker 1>how big this snack would become. For the longest time,

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<v Speaker 1>he thought it just wasn't a bet worth making a

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<v Speaker 1>tourdlla with cheese on it. You mean, like the kind

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<v Speaker 1>of foodie as a kid.

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<v Speaker 8>Really introducing Comble's new Nacho cheese souped in it turns

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<v Speaker 8>anything not soo zippy into Nacho zippy.

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<v Speaker 1>It's Christina's father Ignacio and Aya Junior did try to

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<v Speaker 1>revisit the question of patents in the nineteen eighties and nineties,

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<v Speaker 1>but it was too late. By then, Nacho's were already

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<v Speaker 1>in the public domain.

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<v Speaker 2>Are you missing that Taco Bells knew nachos cheese?

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<v Speaker 9>Tried Nacho cheese doritos? Did they taste as good as

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<v Speaker 9>they crunch?

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<v Speaker 1>You couldn't patent it even if you tried. Nacho and

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<v Speaker 1>his family never did directly profit off of the Nacho's

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<v Speaker 1>widespread success. Nacho's restaurant isn't even there anymore. Nacho died

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<v Speaker 1>in nineteen seventy five, but his invention would live on,

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<v Speaker 1>and just a year after his passing, one savvy San

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<v Speaker 1>Antonio based entrepreneur would take Nachos to the big leagues.

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<v Speaker 2>Coming up on Latino Usa.

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<v Speaker 5>Nachos take the world by storm, but their skyrocketing popularity obscures.

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<v Speaker 2>The Nachos real origin story.

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<v Speaker 5>Stay with us, Yes, hey, We're back. In nineteen forty three,

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<v Speaker 5>Ignacio Nacho Anaya invented his namesake dish in the Mexican

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<v Speaker 5>border town of Piedras Negras, Guauila. When we left off,

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<v Speaker 5>Nachos had already become a popular appetizer dish all over

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<v Speaker 5>South Texas. But nachos would become even bigger than their

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<v Speaker 5>inventor ever anticipated, thanks to an enterprising concession's food business

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<v Speaker 5>headquartered less than two hundred miles away in San Antonio.

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<v Speaker 5>So here's producer Alejandra Salasad with the rest of the story.

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<v Speaker 1>It's the turn of the twentieth century. An Italian boy

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<v Speaker 1>from a small Sicilian province moves to the United States.

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<v Speaker 1>He's fourteen years old and alone, arriving in New Orleans

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<v Speaker 1>in eighteen ninety, decides to build a life in this

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<v Speaker 1>land of opportunity. He opens a grocery store. He gets

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<v Speaker 1>married and starts a family. They moved to Texas in

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<v Speaker 1>the early nineteen hundreds, eventually permanently relocating to San Antonio.

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<v Speaker 1>The grocery business comes with them, now renamed after the family,

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<v Speaker 1>Liberto Market and Grocery One. Liberto son Enrico inherits the business,

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<v Speaker 1>and in the decades that follow the store shifts its

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<v Speaker 1>focus to selling concessions roasted peanuts and popcorn, candy and bulk,

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<v Speaker 1>and Rico trains his son Frank to take over next.

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<v Speaker 6>My grand parents had my dad and they're like only child.

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<v Speaker 6>That's it.

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<v Speaker 8>So my dad got to take the business over by himself.

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<v Speaker 8>He didn't have any brothers and sisters.

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<v Speaker 1>This is Tony Liberto. He's the fourth generation to run

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<v Speaker 1>the family business. The company, though, isn't called Libertos anymore.

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<v Speaker 1>In this story about namesakes and nicknames, Frank eventually renamed

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<v Speaker 1>the company after his father, Rico Rico Rico's Products Company.

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<v Speaker 1>As the company's current president and CEO, Tony oversees a

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<v Speaker 1>business that has expanded to all fifty states in the

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<v Speaker 1>US and fifty seven countries worldwide. You've probably seen their

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<v Speaker 1>products at movie theaters and stadiums. They're even selling their

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<v Speaker 1>snacks in grocery stores now.

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<v Speaker 8>When it started from my great grandfather, and then you

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<v Speaker 8>know a few years ago, we have business in Dubai,

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<v Speaker 8>we have a business in Korea. And when I fly

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<v Speaker 8>over there and I see those products on the shelf

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<v Speaker 8>in those countries, and then I sit back and think

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<v Speaker 8>about my grandfather at fourteen came over here.

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<v Speaker 6>Just gives you chills.

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<v Speaker 1>Rico's growth really took off under Tony's dad, Frank Liberto.

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<v Speaker 1>The way Tony tells it, Frank was a concession's visionary.

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<v Speaker 1>He expanded the business across Texas to movie theaters and

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<v Speaker 1>select stadiums in Dallas. In Houston big gets, but his

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<v Speaker 1>biggest move came to fruition in his hometown.

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<v Speaker 8>He to a restaurant here in San Antonio called Metta.

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<v Speaker 8>This is in the early I guess seventy three, seventy four,

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<v Speaker 8>and he ordered nachos and he's like, man, this is

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<v Speaker 8>a good thing. If I could figure out a way

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<v Speaker 8>to sell nachos in a concession stand, we could probably

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<v Speaker 8>make some money.

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<v Speaker 1>Nacho's original formula and the elegant simplicity of it to topos,

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<v Speaker 1>melted cheese and jalapago convinced Frank to make his own

420
00:26:25.840 --> 00:26:28.439
<v Speaker 1>version of the dish, one that could be sold on

421
00:26:28.480 --> 00:26:32.280
<v Speaker 1>a mass scale. He made deals with the riet chip

422
00:26:32.280 --> 00:26:35.960
<v Speaker 1>producers and jalapeno growers in Mexico. He found a company

423
00:26:36.040 --> 00:26:40.159
<v Speaker 1>that made cheese sauce, and in nineteen seventy six, Frank

424
00:26:40.280 --> 00:26:43.960
<v Speaker 1>called up Arlington Stadium, where the Texas Rangers used to play.

425
00:26:44.320 --> 00:26:46.760
<v Speaker 1>He convinced them to let him debut his new concoction

426
00:26:47.000 --> 00:26:50.160
<v Speaker 1>at a baseball game. Frank and his family made little

427
00:26:50.200 --> 00:26:53.320
<v Speaker 1>carts to sell the nachos tables with red and white

428
00:26:53.400 --> 00:26:55.159
<v Speaker 1>stripes running down the sides.

429
00:26:55.440 --> 00:26:57.280
<v Speaker 8>We built nine carts, and I was in high school

430
00:26:57.280 --> 00:26:59.440
<v Speaker 8>and I was making these carts with him, and we

431
00:26:59.520 --> 00:27:02.840
<v Speaker 8>put him up there and it went off like wildfire.

432
00:27:02.960 --> 00:27:06.159
<v Speaker 8>People were standing in line, ten people deep in the

433
00:27:06.200 --> 00:27:08.560
<v Speaker 8>concessions this little cart, and you'd hear the crack of

434
00:27:08.600 --> 00:27:11.160
<v Speaker 8>the bat, you hear the stadium roar, and nobody would

435
00:27:11.200 --> 00:27:11.960
<v Speaker 8>leave the line.

436
00:27:12.119 --> 00:27:13.360
<v Speaker 6>They wanted to get some nachos.

437
00:27:15.560 --> 00:27:19.520
<v Speaker 1>Nachos spread fast. Within a year, Rico's set up shop

438
00:27:19.600 --> 00:27:23.320
<v Speaker 1>in Texas Stadium, then home to the Dallas Cowboys football team.

439
00:27:23.640 --> 00:27:27.360
<v Speaker 1>On September fourth, nineteen seventy eight, Hot Shot Monday night

440
00:27:27.400 --> 00:27:31.439
<v Speaker 1>football commentator Howard Cosell gave nachos his approval on a

441
00:27:31.480 --> 00:27:34.880
<v Speaker 1>live broadcast, which boosted interest and sales.

442
00:27:35.800 --> 00:27:39.840
<v Speaker 8>Then the movies came calling, and Dad said, no, no, no, no,

443
00:27:39.880 --> 00:27:41.200
<v Speaker 8>this is a stadium item.

444
00:27:41.800 --> 00:27:43.720
<v Speaker 6>You have velvet seats, you have carpeting.

445
00:27:43.880 --> 00:27:45.919
<v Speaker 8>You're going to be calling me and telling me I

446
00:27:45.920 --> 00:27:48.040
<v Speaker 8>got to clean your theaters because you've got stains all

447
00:27:48.080 --> 00:27:48.760
<v Speaker 8>over your seats.

448
00:27:48.960 --> 00:27:52.160
<v Speaker 1>But Frank's concerns were drowned out by the wide demand

449
00:27:52.160 --> 00:27:55.600
<v Speaker 1>for nachos across the country. People could not get enough.

450
00:27:56.119 --> 00:27:59.640
<v Speaker 1>By nineteen eighty, just four years after making their stadium,

451
00:27:59.720 --> 00:28:03.679
<v Speaker 1>dabut You, nachos had already become a popular theater concession,

452
00:28:03.880 --> 00:28:08.760
<v Speaker 1>along with heavy hitters like popcorn, hot dogs, and soda.

453
00:28:08.880 --> 00:28:10.320
<v Speaker 8>So then we put it in you not a artists

454
00:28:10.320 --> 00:28:13.960
<v Speaker 8>theaters who now is regal theaters and then other theaters

455
00:28:14.040 --> 00:28:17.520
<v Speaker 8>General Cinema AMC. At one point we had about nine

456
00:28:18.200 --> 00:28:20.240
<v Speaker 8>eighty five percent of the theater chains across the United

457
00:28:20.240 --> 00:28:21.200
<v Speaker 8>States using our product.

458
00:28:21.640 --> 00:28:24.280
<v Speaker 1>What Ricos did with nachos isn't just a matter of

459
00:28:24.359 --> 00:28:28.760
<v Speaker 1>market dominance. The concession nacho is a cultural force. There's

460
00:28:28.800 --> 00:28:31.639
<v Speaker 1>a sizable chance that you, the person listening to this,

461
00:28:31.960 --> 00:28:34.640
<v Speaker 1>know what nachos are because of Ricos.

462
00:28:34.720 --> 00:28:36.399
<v Speaker 2>Hi, folks, I'm Rico.

463
00:28:37.040 --> 00:28:39.280
<v Speaker 9>Oh he's peppy.

464
00:28:39.760 --> 00:28:43.240
<v Speaker 2>See. You can find us at the concession stand, in.

465
00:28:43.360 --> 00:28:47.200
<v Speaker 1>All the fig round dortilla chips, the unsettlingly artificial yellow

466
00:28:47.320 --> 00:28:54.000
<v Speaker 1>cheese sauce, the concept of nacho cheese existing separate from cheese.

467
00:28:54.400 --> 00:28:58.000
<v Speaker 1>That's all things to Ricos. Remember, folks, we are the

468
00:28:58.200 --> 00:29:02.800
<v Speaker 1>new star at the snackbar KOs nachos. Would I tell people, O, yeah,

469
00:29:02.800 --> 00:29:05.080
<v Speaker 1>I'm doing sure with the nachos they have like a

470
00:29:05.160 --> 00:29:07.000
<v Speaker 1>vivid idea of the nacho in their mind, which is

471
00:29:07.040 --> 00:29:08.360
<v Speaker 1>the repos right.

472
00:29:08.720 --> 00:29:11.760
<v Speaker 8>Yeah, Well, because if you think about it, they're experiencing

473
00:29:11.760 --> 00:29:14.280
<v Speaker 8>our product. And Dad always said, you know, as a

474
00:29:14.320 --> 00:29:17.240
<v Speaker 8>concessionaire is someone who sells product, food and beverage to

475
00:29:17.240 --> 00:29:20.160
<v Speaker 8>people who didn't come to his place to buy food

476
00:29:20.160 --> 00:29:22.160
<v Speaker 8>and beverage. They went there to watch a ballgame or

477
00:29:22.440 --> 00:29:25.680
<v Speaker 8>movie or you know, basketball game, but the food and

478
00:29:25.680 --> 00:29:27.000
<v Speaker 8>beverage experience was part of it.

479
00:29:27.040 --> 00:29:29.520
<v Speaker 6>So it's kind of a nostalgia thing.

480
00:29:30.120 --> 00:29:33.320
<v Speaker 1>How did nachos end up at so many formative movie

481
00:29:33.480 --> 00:29:38.880
<v Speaker 1>or sports events of our youth? The most obvious answer

482
00:29:39.000 --> 00:29:41.600
<v Speaker 1>is that they're tasty. No one is going to say

483
00:29:41.600 --> 00:29:45.920
<v Speaker 1>no to cheese flavor and salty corn chips. But nachos

484
00:29:45.920 --> 00:29:50.360
<v Speaker 1>were an extraordinary business opportunity for Ricos. Frank didn't invent

485
00:29:50.400 --> 00:29:54.440
<v Speaker 1>the foundational flavor combination or even the concept of nachos.

486
00:29:54.720 --> 00:29:59.440
<v Speaker 1>What he invented was essentially a hyper efficient delivery system

487
00:30:00.000 --> 00:30:03.040
<v Speaker 1>mind for an environment where people are naturally very short

488
00:30:03.080 --> 00:30:03.480
<v Speaker 1>on time.

489
00:30:04.000 --> 00:30:08.760
<v Speaker 8>Dad knew that concession sells is about transaction time. Grab

490
00:30:08.760 --> 00:30:11.080
<v Speaker 8>the chips, hand to the next person, ladle the cheese

491
00:30:11.120 --> 00:30:13.520
<v Speaker 8>over it, bill the peppers, on and collect the cash

492
00:30:13.960 --> 00:30:16.080
<v Speaker 8>so you could serve somebody in about fifteen seconds.

493
00:30:16.400 --> 00:30:20.360
<v Speaker 1>Nachos became a dream for vendors bottom lines, a way

494
00:30:20.440 --> 00:30:23.800
<v Speaker 1>to make the most bang for your buck. Start with

495
00:30:23.840 --> 00:30:26.960
<v Speaker 1>the cheese sauce. At the time, real cheese would go

496
00:30:27.000 --> 00:30:29.840
<v Speaker 1>bad too quickly behind a concession stand, and it was

497
00:30:29.960 --> 00:30:33.920
<v Speaker 1>too tricky to measure and melt fast. The trick was

498
00:30:33.960 --> 00:30:38.200
<v Speaker 1>to emulsify US cheese, concentrate and mix that with water

499
00:30:38.320 --> 00:30:42.040
<v Speaker 1>and juice left over from cannedarrabagos. That was part of

500
00:30:42.080 --> 00:30:45.400
<v Speaker 1>the brilliance of frank small park nachos. Every bit of

501
00:30:45.440 --> 00:30:49.360
<v Speaker 1>the ingredients went to use. Rico's still uses a similar

502
00:30:49.400 --> 00:30:54.560
<v Speaker 1>formula for their package Nacho Cheese today. Today nachos are

503
00:30:54.640 --> 00:30:58.240
<v Speaker 1>Rico's top selling item. On average, the company sells nearly

504
00:30:58.320 --> 00:31:04.239
<v Speaker 1>one hundred million pounds of cheese sauce per year. Early on,

505
00:31:04.280 --> 00:31:07.840
<v Speaker 1>in reporting this story, I noticed some similarities between Nacho's

506
00:31:07.920 --> 00:31:11.640
<v Speaker 1>Nachos and Rico's nachos. They share immigrant roots, and they've

507
00:31:11.680 --> 00:31:15.280
<v Speaker 1>both become smash hits in the US. Yet ever since

508
00:31:15.320 --> 00:31:19.160
<v Speaker 1>the beginning, they've served distinct purposes. One was a strike

509
00:31:19.200 --> 00:31:22.760
<v Speaker 1>of lightning, the other a shrewd business call. So it

510
00:31:22.840 --> 00:31:25.880
<v Speaker 1>makes sense that everyone I spoke to for this story,

511
00:31:26.200 --> 00:31:30.800
<v Speaker 1>including and especially Ricos, emphasized that what Ricos sells are

512
00:31:30.840 --> 00:31:34.000
<v Speaker 1>not the original nachos. This is not what Natchoa and

513
00:31:34.040 --> 00:31:34.840
<v Speaker 1>Naya invented.

514
00:31:35.280 --> 00:31:37.959
<v Speaker 8>Dad never claimed that he started nachos. He always claimed

515
00:31:38.400 --> 00:31:42.640
<v Speaker 8>he originated the concession nacho, which he did the ballpark nacho.

516
00:31:42.760 --> 00:31:45.800
<v Speaker 1>And Toni says that Ricos has always deferred to Ignacio

517
00:31:45.840 --> 00:31:49.440
<v Speaker 1>and Naya as the creator of this dish. Still, they've

518
00:31:49.520 --> 00:31:52.960
<v Speaker 1>gotten some blowback about it before, and they probably will

519
00:31:53.000 --> 00:31:54.360
<v Speaker 1>after this story airs too.

520
00:31:54.720 --> 00:31:55.800
<v Speaker 6>People have kind of.

521
00:31:55.680 --> 00:31:57.880
<v Speaker 8>Called us out on our website, So, you guys didn't

522
00:31:57.920 --> 00:32:00.360
<v Speaker 8>originate the nacho. It was originated by the Ania family,

523
00:32:00.360 --> 00:32:02.360
<v Speaker 8>and we politely say, we know, you know, we're not

524
00:32:02.400 --> 00:32:04.880
<v Speaker 8>claiming that we originated this actual dish.

525
00:32:07.240 --> 00:32:10.480
<v Speaker 1>While nachos are now mass produced concession items, they also

526
00:32:10.480 --> 00:32:13.680
<v Speaker 1>continue to be served as Nacho created them, freshly made

527
00:32:14.080 --> 00:32:17.800
<v Speaker 1>straight from the kitchen. Many Mexican restaurants in the US

528
00:32:18.040 --> 00:32:21.720
<v Speaker 1>offer nachos as a staple appetizer that you sit down

529
00:32:21.760 --> 00:32:26.800
<v Speaker 1>to enjoy. For example, remember Mitierre, that San Antonio restaurant

530
00:32:26.920 --> 00:32:30.880
<v Speaker 1>or Frank Roberto first tried nachos the restaurant still sells

531
00:32:30.920 --> 00:32:34.640
<v Speaker 1>them today too, piping hot with cheese melted over a

532
00:32:34.720 --> 00:32:40.320
<v Speaker 1>layer of brief fried beans. Yet the fact remains that

533
00:32:40.520 --> 00:32:45.000
<v Speaker 1>Ricos and the Libertos built an empire off of nachos,

534
00:32:45.200 --> 00:32:49.880
<v Speaker 1>and the man who conceptualized the Nacho and his family didn't.

535
00:32:50.520 --> 00:32:54.360
<v Speaker 1>Nacho's restaurant struggled to stay afloat after his death, eventually

536
00:32:54.400 --> 00:32:57.920
<v Speaker 1>shuddering for good in the nineties. Unlike Rico's, there's no

537
00:32:58.040 --> 00:33:01.480
<v Speaker 1>beautiful office in prime downtown San Antonio. For the anis

538
00:33:01.880 --> 00:33:05.720
<v Speaker 1>no millions of dollars in natural sales. Ricos couldn't patent

539
00:33:05.800 --> 00:33:09.719
<v Speaker 1>their product either, but they do hold valuable registered trademarks

540
00:33:09.760 --> 00:33:12.720
<v Speaker 1>on their cheese, sauce and other items. So how does

541
00:33:12.760 --> 00:33:13.400
<v Speaker 1>that square.

542
00:33:13.880 --> 00:33:16.479
<v Speaker 8>If they could have patented, they would have all been

543
00:33:16.600 --> 00:33:21.000
<v Speaker 8>very very happy with that for sure, And people can

544
00:33:21.040 --> 00:33:23.480
<v Speaker 8>take that concept. You know, other restaurants here can take

545
00:33:23.520 --> 00:33:27.840
<v Speaker 8>that concept and do the same thing. So it's the

546
00:33:27.880 --> 00:33:29.920
<v Speaker 8>fact that they couldn't patent it, I think is where

547
00:33:30.360 --> 00:33:32.320
<v Speaker 8>way they could benefit as a serve it to as

548
00:33:32.320 --> 00:33:35.720
<v Speaker 8>many notch of restaurants as they could. But we as

549
00:33:35.720 --> 00:33:39.880
<v Speaker 8>a company are serving too, you know, large national chains

550
00:33:40.560 --> 00:33:44.000
<v Speaker 8>and there's a lot more volume. I guess you're obviously

551
00:33:44.040 --> 00:33:47.200
<v Speaker 8>going to see more sales in that environment. But since

552
00:33:47.440 --> 00:33:50.360
<v Speaker 8>you know Ignacio couldn't patent it, I mean, I don't

553
00:33:50.360 --> 00:33:51.520
<v Speaker 8>know how else they could have benefited.

554
00:33:51.640 --> 00:33:53.680
<v Speaker 6>You know, it's a food product.

555
00:33:54.000 --> 00:33:57.040
<v Speaker 1>Have there been any efforts to kind of retouch them

556
00:33:57.120 --> 00:33:58.000
<v Speaker 1>or to work with.

557
00:33:57.960 --> 00:33:58.840
<v Speaker 6>Them or no?

558
00:33:59.040 --> 00:34:02.200
<v Speaker 8>But you just thought, just give me goosebumps, babe. We should,

559
00:34:02.440 --> 00:34:06.200
<v Speaker 8>you know, try to get back together and you know,

560
00:34:07.680 --> 00:34:10.600
<v Speaker 8>have recognition together for what our families and our forefathers

561
00:34:10.640 --> 00:34:11.200
<v Speaker 8>have done for us.

562
00:34:11.239 --> 00:34:14.680
<v Speaker 6>Yeah, that would be neat.

563
00:34:20.120 --> 00:34:22.799
<v Speaker 1>From what both Tony and the Anayas can remember. The

564
00:34:22.880 --> 00:34:26.440
<v Speaker 1>last time their families interacted was back in the seventies,

565
00:34:26.840 --> 00:34:30.440
<v Speaker 1>right when Frank Liberto was poised to debut the concession Nacho.

566
00:34:31.040 --> 00:34:33.280
<v Speaker 1>He went down to Eagle Pass to speak with Ignascio

567
00:34:33.320 --> 00:34:37.520
<v Speaker 1>and Aya Junior, Gisina's father. Both men have passed away

568
00:34:37.560 --> 00:34:40.839
<v Speaker 1>since nobody I could speak to knows what was said

569
00:34:41.200 --> 00:34:42.880
<v Speaker 1>or agreed to in that meeting.

570
00:34:47.520 --> 00:34:49.759
<v Speaker 9>The story of the Nacho is really a story of

571
00:34:49.840 --> 00:34:55.279
<v Speaker 9>the loss of an apostrophe. It's Nachos Special and that's

572
00:34:55.280 --> 00:34:57.880
<v Speaker 9>the original name, and it continued to be called Nacho

573
00:34:57.960 --> 00:35:03.960
<v Speaker 9>Special there, but over time the agency of NATCHO was erased.

574
00:35:04.360 --> 00:35:07.239
<v Speaker 1>Adan Midrano is a chef and food writer. A born

575
00:35:07.280 --> 00:35:11.120
<v Speaker 1>in Reisdejano from San Antonio's West Side, Adan is dedicated

576
00:35:11.200 --> 00:35:15.080
<v Speaker 1>to preserving and elevating the cuisines of Texas Mexican communities,

577
00:35:15.480 --> 00:35:19.320
<v Speaker 1>the food of South Texas and Northern Mexican regions, which

578
00:35:19.520 --> 00:35:22.760
<v Speaker 1>have a shared culinary history that reaches back centuries before

579
00:35:22.880 --> 00:35:26.920
<v Speaker 1>the US Mexico border was ever established. Just to be clear,

580
00:35:27.239 --> 00:35:30.800
<v Speaker 1>Texas Mexican food isn't an extended term for tex mechs,

581
00:35:31.280 --> 00:35:34.640
<v Speaker 1>which is a wholly separate thing, an adaptation of Mexican

582
00:35:34.680 --> 00:35:38.160
<v Speaker 1>food by white settlers in Texas in the early nineteen hundreds.

583
00:35:38.360 --> 00:35:41.560
<v Speaker 1>Though tex mechs does represent what happens to a lot

584
00:35:41.600 --> 00:35:43.480
<v Speaker 1>of Mexican cuisine in the US.

585
00:35:44.040 --> 00:35:46.760
<v Speaker 9>They simply took it upon themselves to call tex mechs

586
00:35:47.000 --> 00:35:50.320
<v Speaker 9>the real thing, even though it's an appropriation of our food.

587
00:35:50.480 --> 00:35:53.680
<v Speaker 1>And that's kind of what happened with nachos two. In

588
00:35:53.719 --> 00:35:57.799
<v Speaker 1>twenty nineteen, Adan published his cookbook Don't Count the Tortillas,

589
00:35:58.200 --> 00:36:01.400
<v Speaker 1>The Art of Texas Mexican Cooking. It is his latest

590
00:36:01.440 --> 00:36:05.440
<v Speaker 1>effort to reclaim the region's culinary history from misinformed authors,

591
00:36:05.800 --> 00:36:09.200
<v Speaker 1>many of whom are often white or possess little understanding

592
00:36:09.360 --> 00:36:10.000
<v Speaker 1>of the region.

593
00:36:10.320 --> 00:36:13.840
<v Speaker 9>In my book, I make reference to the Huffington Post

594
00:36:13.840 --> 00:36:18.440
<v Speaker 9>story that says that the nacho was born because there

595
00:36:18.480 --> 00:36:22.320
<v Speaker 9>was no chef and a waiter just threw things together.

596
00:36:23.840 --> 00:36:27.239
<v Speaker 9>This is how food writers have erased the voice of

597
00:36:27.280 --> 00:36:30.400
<v Speaker 9>our culinarians and the agency. By agency, I mean the

598
00:36:30.520 --> 00:36:34.160
<v Speaker 9>creative power that we have to create beautiful food.

599
00:36:34.840 --> 00:36:38.040
<v Speaker 1>Over time, nachos have become part of a pantheon of

600
00:36:38.160 --> 00:36:42.080
<v Speaker 1>quote unquote American foods. In many ways, its origin story

601
00:36:42.160 --> 00:36:46.320
<v Speaker 1>has been eclipsed, flattened down, and swallowed whole by American

602
00:36:46.360 --> 00:36:51.719
<v Speaker 1>myth making. To create his dish, Natcho had to draw

603
00:36:51.800 --> 00:36:56.239
<v Speaker 1>from the culinary history of the US Mexico borderlands. He

604
00:36:56.320 --> 00:37:00.160
<v Speaker 1>worked on the fly, Yes, but it wasn't at random,

605
00:37:00.200 --> 00:37:03.960
<v Speaker 1>pairing corn, tortillas and cheese with some chile for heat.

606
00:37:04.560 --> 00:37:08.000
<v Speaker 1>That was a deliberate choice, inspired by the gesadillas and

607
00:37:08.040 --> 00:37:11.759
<v Speaker 1>salsas of his youth. It's an instinct that comes from

608
00:37:11.840 --> 00:37:15.880
<v Speaker 1>inherited culinary knowledge and a lifetime of eating the specific

609
00:37:15.920 --> 00:37:19.640
<v Speaker 1>foods and flavors of your people. In the case of Texas,

610
00:37:19.640 --> 00:37:24.160
<v Speaker 1>Mexican cuisine, which isn't typically taught in formal classroom settings.

611
00:37:24.560 --> 00:37:27.320
<v Speaker 1>A lot of this food is archived by home cooks,

612
00:37:27.680 --> 00:37:32.040
<v Speaker 1>often women, and passed down between generations at the dinner table.

613
00:37:33.560 --> 00:37:36.520
<v Speaker 1>These are the kinds of details that avan worries will

614
00:37:36.560 --> 00:37:40.440
<v Speaker 1>get lost if local histories are not properly documented.

615
00:37:41.480 --> 00:37:46.879
<v Speaker 9>Food narrates our history and also narrates our identity. When

616
00:37:46.920 --> 00:37:50.239
<v Speaker 9>my mom hands me and I'm four or five years old,

617
00:37:50.600 --> 00:37:55.600
<v Speaker 9>the tortilla beautifully done in the traditional way, that's the

618
00:37:55.640 --> 00:37:59.680
<v Speaker 9>memory of our history and of our ancestry. That's how

619
00:37:59.719 --> 00:38:04.279
<v Speaker 9>food it works. For example, in Ninchilada, everything about in

620
00:38:04.360 --> 00:38:08.880
<v Speaker 9>Ninchilada speaks to our ancestry, our ancestry as indigenous people,

621
00:38:09.760 --> 00:38:13.279
<v Speaker 9>the corn being indigenous, the salt being indigenous, and the

622
00:38:13.360 --> 00:38:16.839
<v Speaker 9>chilis this is the original esthetic. So every time that

623
00:38:16.880 --> 00:38:20.040
<v Speaker 9>I eat and make this in Chilada, I'm reaching back

624
00:38:20.080 --> 00:38:22.520
<v Speaker 9>into history to our indigenous character.

625
00:38:23.080 --> 00:38:26.240
<v Speaker 1>A dish like the modern day in Chilava also nods

626
00:38:26.280 --> 00:38:30.400
<v Speaker 1>to the introduction of European colonists in Mexico, cheese being

627
00:38:30.440 --> 00:38:33.040
<v Speaker 1>a quote unquote old World food brought over in the

628
00:38:33.120 --> 00:38:36.520
<v Speaker 1>years following the violent conquest of Latin America, but in

629
00:38:36.560 --> 00:38:40.240
<v Speaker 1>taking a foreign ingredient like cheese, producing it with regional

630
00:38:40.239 --> 00:38:44.279
<v Speaker 1>materials and resources, and combining it with indigenous staples to

631
00:38:44.320 --> 00:38:48.600
<v Speaker 1>make now classic recipes. Mexican cooks created a new culinary

632
00:38:48.680 --> 00:38:52.920
<v Speaker 1>language unique to them in creating natural special That's a

633
00:38:53.000 --> 00:38:56.680
<v Speaker 1>legacy that Ignacio and Naya contributed to as well. It's

634
00:38:56.840 --> 00:39:00.000
<v Speaker 1>a big reason why Avan is especially fascinated by naturale.

635
00:39:00.560 --> 00:39:03.759
<v Speaker 1>The dish provides an avenue to excavate the histories of

636
00:39:03.760 --> 00:39:07.160
<v Speaker 1>the region, from the lasting impact of colonialism up to

637
00:39:07.160 --> 00:39:12.160
<v Speaker 1>today's fraught immigration politics. After all, as the borderland creation,

638
00:39:12.760 --> 00:39:18.040
<v Speaker 1>nachos are a glaring reminder that political divides our artifice.

639
00:39:18.120 --> 00:39:21.400
<v Speaker 1>In this way, An argues, food is a more honest

640
00:39:21.440 --> 00:39:23.520
<v Speaker 1>guide than any map could ever be.

641
00:39:23.960 --> 00:39:27.320
<v Speaker 9>It's the power of food and our gathering in family

642
00:39:27.360 --> 00:39:32.200
<v Speaker 9>and in community that have maintained our cohesiveness and the

643
00:39:32.280 --> 00:39:35.919
<v Speaker 9>coherence of who we are, and that our ancestry goes

644
00:39:35.920 --> 00:39:39.680
<v Speaker 9>back ten thousand years on this land, this Texas land.

645
00:39:39.920 --> 00:39:44.359
<v Speaker 9>When you say nachos cannot be explained by because they

646
00:39:44.360 --> 00:39:47.480
<v Speaker 9>came over from Mexico, nor can they be explained that

647
00:39:47.520 --> 00:39:50.120
<v Speaker 9>they were born in the United States. They can only

648
00:39:50.160 --> 00:39:55.000
<v Speaker 9>be explained by understanding that region as a landscape. Food

649
00:39:55.160 --> 00:40:00.640
<v Speaker 9>does not have nationality. Food has roots, and so worldview

650
00:40:00.719 --> 00:40:03.839
<v Speaker 9>that people have that Mexicans came over and they're all

651
00:40:03.880 --> 00:40:07.279
<v Speaker 9>immigrants is simply put into crisis when you go into

652
00:40:07.400 --> 00:40:15.880
<v Speaker 9>the origins and the beauty of the Nacho's special dish.

653
00:40:15.960 --> 00:40:19.279
<v Speaker 1>I'm back with my mother at the Cristina's house. This

654
00:40:19.440 --> 00:40:23.680
<v Speaker 1>time Christina invited her sister Marcella over. Marcella's daughter and

655
00:40:23.760 --> 00:40:28.680
<v Speaker 1>grandchildren are here. Calisi and the dogs are back as well.

656
00:40:37.000 --> 00:40:39.759
<v Speaker 1>We sit down again and early on I mentioned that

657
00:40:39.800 --> 00:40:43.520
<v Speaker 1>I've spoken with folks from Ricos. Both women looked surprised

658
00:40:43.560 --> 00:40:45.960
<v Speaker 1>that I went to them for a story about nachos,

659
00:40:46.440 --> 00:40:48.200
<v Speaker 1>and Marcella loves.

660
00:40:48.600 --> 00:40:53.839
<v Speaker 7>No those are fake, it's another kind of.

661
00:40:55.320 --> 00:40:59.960
<v Speaker 1>Those are snacks. This is an appetizer. Marcella came out

662
00:41:00.200 --> 00:41:03.680
<v Speaker 1>to talk about Nacho's nachos. She actually brought a large

663
00:41:03.719 --> 00:41:08.360
<v Speaker 1>children's picture book with her called Well Nachos Nachos. It

664
00:41:08.480 --> 00:41:11.880
<v Speaker 1>was published in twenty twenty by an author named Sandra Nicol.

665
00:41:12.239 --> 00:41:14.080
<v Speaker 1>She was the first person to reach out to the

666
00:41:14.080 --> 00:41:17.360
<v Speaker 1>Anayas in years, even traveling to Texas to meet some

667
00:41:17.400 --> 00:41:21.160
<v Speaker 1>of the family. He lives in Switzerland, oh Switzerland.

668
00:41:21.800 --> 00:41:30.520
<v Speaker 4>Yeahno, yes, I was texting with her in Nasala comported.

669
00:41:33.920 --> 00:41:37.400
<v Speaker 1>Marcella is fifty nine, a couple of years Christina Senior.

670
00:41:37.960 --> 00:41:41.759
<v Speaker 1>As Ignacio Andaya Junior's second oldest child. Marcella has a

671
00:41:41.800 --> 00:41:44.600
<v Speaker 1>few more memories of her grandfather than Christina does.

672
00:41:45.400 --> 00:41:50.839
<v Speaker 4>That's the only game my grandfather played with us, Lotteria

673
00:41:51.360 --> 00:41:54.640
<v Speaker 4>this because we used to play Guyina and Coyote, and

674
00:41:54.680 --> 00:41:56.960
<v Speaker 4>I can remember how that game goes.

675
00:41:57.000 --> 00:41:58.960
<v Speaker 2>But he just liked to.

676
00:42:00.680 --> 00:42:07.760
<v Speaker 4>Sitting beside him watching us play. One time, he paints

677
00:42:07.840 --> 00:42:13.560
<v Speaker 4>he's here, and he comes out red. He's here, He's here,

678
00:42:14.520 --> 00:42:19.520
<v Speaker 4>And instead of getting mad, he went out and looked

679
00:42:19.560 --> 00:42:26.120
<v Speaker 4>for friends and he started making faces and just showing

680
00:42:26.160 --> 00:42:33.400
<v Speaker 4>his hair, his red hair. See, he was so funny.

681
00:42:34.239 --> 00:42:37.239
<v Speaker 1>Nachos des Sentences have made peace with the way things

682
00:42:37.239 --> 00:42:41.040
<v Speaker 1>went down, with the natos global success and with their

683
00:42:41.080 --> 00:42:43.959
<v Speaker 1>grandfather's decision to not capitalize on his.

684
00:42:43.880 --> 00:42:48.640
<v Speaker 7>Invention, because if the inventor of the nachos, they didn't

685
00:42:48.719 --> 00:42:53.279
<v Speaker 7>do anything about it, like why will you?

686
00:42:54.040 --> 00:42:59.120
<v Speaker 1>Even if sometimes it still stinks. At one point, De

687
00:42:59.320 --> 00:43:01.720
<v Speaker 1>Christina and mars Last start discussing it with my mom.

688
00:43:07.960 --> 00:43:09.240
<v Speaker 10>Better Better.

689
00:43:13.960 --> 00:43:16.279
<v Speaker 1>For the most part, though, they don't dwell on it,

690
00:43:16.880 --> 00:43:19.520
<v Speaker 1>and they don't want to dwell on it wasting time

691
00:43:19.560 --> 00:43:22.920
<v Speaker 1>and energy on this. And even if there had been

692
00:43:22.960 --> 00:43:26.600
<v Speaker 1>any sort of natural related windfall, they think it would

693
00:43:26.640 --> 00:43:31.040
<v Speaker 1>be kind of a logistical nightmare. Today, Natcho had nine kids,

694
00:43:31.320 --> 00:43:35.080
<v Speaker 1>plenty more grandkids, and now great and great great grandchildren

695
00:43:35.200 --> 00:43:38.400
<v Speaker 1>are in the picture too. Christina and Marcella do not

696
00:43:38.719 --> 00:43:41.239
<v Speaker 1>like thinking about the chaos that would have ensued within

697
00:43:41.280 --> 00:43:44.960
<v Speaker 1>the family if their grandfather had decided to patent his dish,

698
00:43:45.120 --> 00:43:47.720
<v Speaker 1>or if he decided to create some sort of national

699
00:43:47.800 --> 00:43:52.080
<v Speaker 1>fast food chain like a Mexican Colonel Sanders KFC, but

700
00:43:52.120 --> 00:43:57.839
<v Speaker 1>for nachos. Instead, his family got to build their own

701
00:43:57.880 --> 00:44:01.480
<v Speaker 1>lives outside of the shadow of Nata, so special, instead

702
00:44:01.480 --> 00:44:04.520
<v Speaker 1>of getting wrapped up in their patriarch's legacy, they were

703
00:44:04.560 --> 00:44:07.920
<v Speaker 1>free to create their own. A lot of that freedom, too,

704
00:44:08.239 --> 00:44:11.160
<v Speaker 1>was a direct result of the work Nato himself put

705
00:44:11.200 --> 00:44:14.640
<v Speaker 1>in to support his family, to provide them the kind

706
00:44:14.680 --> 00:44:19.960
<v Speaker 1>of stability that precludes opportunity. So what can the an

707
00:44:20.000 --> 00:44:24.960
<v Speaker 1>Ayas do now, really except make sure NATO's story isn't lost,

708
00:44:25.600 --> 00:44:30.040
<v Speaker 1>Except make sure that people know the truth. And it

709
00:44:30.160 --> 00:44:43.600
<v Speaker 1>really is a tremendous storymentar sisupiras, if only you knew?

710
00:44:46.880 --> 00:44:47.600
<v Speaker 6>And that was.

711
00:44:53.840 --> 00:44:57.399
<v Speaker 1>Every year since nineteen ninety five, typically in October there's

712
00:44:57.440 --> 00:45:01.120
<v Speaker 1>been a festival in Pierre's Negres in honor of nachos.

713
00:45:02.320 --> 00:45:05.600
<v Speaker 1>And yet Ignacio and Aya wasn't out to make history.

714
00:45:06.239 --> 00:45:09.000
<v Speaker 1>He enjoyed his job well enough, but all said and done,

715
00:45:09.120 --> 00:45:12.000
<v Speaker 1>it was a means to an end. He always liked.

716
00:45:11.920 --> 00:45:17.120
<v Speaker 7>To cook since little and probably that's why he always

717
00:45:17.160 --> 00:45:20.440
<v Speaker 7>had in his mind like opening in one day his

718
00:45:20.560 --> 00:45:25.239
<v Speaker 7>own place. But I mean to support his family maybe too.

719
00:45:25.320 --> 00:45:27.399
<v Speaker 7>I mean nine kids, it's a lot.

720
00:45:30.480 --> 00:45:33.040
<v Speaker 1>Some of those kids went on to have their own families.

721
00:45:33.440 --> 00:45:36.720
<v Speaker 1>They came to the United States and created stable lives

722
00:45:36.760 --> 00:45:41.040
<v Speaker 1>on this side of the border. Today, the Anayas, both

723
00:45:41.080 --> 00:45:44.560
<v Speaker 1>in the US and in Mexico, remain close. Christina still

724
00:45:44.560 --> 00:45:46.520
<v Speaker 1>goes down to the border twice a month to visit

725
00:45:46.560 --> 00:45:51.640
<v Speaker 1>relatives there. The family is growing and happy. And what

726
00:45:51.760 --> 00:45:55.480
<v Speaker 1>greater legacy can one have than this? How does the

727
00:45:55.520 --> 00:45:58.080
<v Speaker 1>story make you feel so proud of my grandpa?

728
00:45:58.800 --> 00:45:59.880
<v Speaker 2>So proud of him?

729
00:46:00.120 --> 00:46:05.279
<v Speaker 7>I feel proud, Yeah for him. I really thank everybody

730
00:46:05.480 --> 00:46:10.160
<v Speaker 7>for recognizing him. Yeah, it's just a nice feeling, A

731
00:46:10.239 --> 00:46:11.120
<v Speaker 7>nice feeling.

732
00:46:32.400 --> 00:46:35.719
<v Speaker 5>This episode was produced by Alejandra Salasad and edited by

733
00:46:35.800 --> 00:46:37.200
<v Speaker 5>Andrea Lopez Cruzado.

734
00:46:37.800 --> 00:46:39.800
<v Speaker 2>It was mixed by j J. Carubin.

735
00:46:40.160 --> 00:46:44.280
<v Speaker 5>Fact checking for this episode by Elizabeth Loezo Torres special

736
00:46:44.320 --> 00:46:48.760
<v Speaker 5>thanks to Malena Salasad and Ricardo Miguel Salasa. The Latino

737
00:46:48.840 --> 00:46:53.840
<v Speaker 5>USA team includes Julia Caruso, Jessica Elis, Victoria Strada, Dominique

738
00:46:53.840 --> 00:46:58.920
<v Speaker 5>In Estrosa Rinaldo Leans Junior, Stephanie LAbau, Louis Luna Rodiman, Martuez,

739
00:46:59.000 --> 00:47:03.520
<v Speaker 5>Martin Martinez, Nor Saudi and Nancy Drujillo. Beni Lei Amidez

740
00:47:03.640 --> 00:47:07.000
<v Speaker 5>is our co executive producer, along with myself and I'm

741
00:47:07.040 --> 00:47:09.560
<v Speaker 5>your host Mardiano Rosa. Join us on our next episode

742
00:47:09.640 --> 00:47:12.080
<v Speaker 5>and remember to see us and look for us on

743
00:47:12.160 --> 00:47:13.280
<v Speaker 5>all of your social media.

744
00:47:13.480 --> 00:47:15.919
<v Speaker 2>I'll see you there. Yes, that approximate.

745
00:47:18.200 --> 00:47:22.480
<v Speaker 10>Latino USA is made possible in part by the Ford Foundation,

746
00:47:23.120 --> 00:47:27.040
<v Speaker 10>working with visionaries on the front lines of social change worldwide,

747
00:47:27.640 --> 00:47:28.239
<v Speaker 10>the John D.

748
00:47:28.480 --> 00:47:29.160
<v Speaker 1>And Catherine T.

749
00:47:29.320 --> 00:47:36.279
<v Speaker 10>MacArthur Foundation, and the Heising Simons Foundation unlocking knowledge, opportunity

750
00:47:36.560 --> 00:47:40.600
<v Speaker 10>and possibilities more at hsfoundation dot org.

751
00:47:44.400 --> 00:47:47.880
<v Speaker 1>How often have you guys been interviewed about NATCHO like